Sarah Diouf is the founder and Editor-in-chief of Ghubar Magazine, a digital fashion publication based in Paris.
Having not been able to attend the shows this season, I invited Sarah to relate the events and her appreciation of the latest collections.
I invite you to re-live this intense month of fashion frivolities through her words.
‘September is the January of Fashion’ not only because it matches this huge come back period where you decide to cut your hair, lose some weight, wear high heels 24/7
, or go with any resolutions you won’t stick to for more than six weeks, but also because September is to any fashion editor on duty the beginning of an unstoppable 4 weeks swirl where New York, London, Milan and Paris turn one after the other into scenes of a future we will all be wearing in six months.
And to be able to witness it closely is an undeniable luxury.
When I first started attending shows five years ago, it wasn’t easy to get access to big powerhouses and established labels presentations, because I was part of the digital world – yet known and still blurry for PRs in need of material support to show their clients the spread results of their worldwide shopping requests – but also because I was presumed too young to run a fashion magazine – again presumingly – addressing a crowd who might not even be able to afford pieces from my reports (…). Then everytime I was turned down for a request, I was politely reminding that their gesture wasn’t very Chanel. Because indeed “Where is the fashion if it doesn’t get to the streets?”
The same streets, neglected for too long, [while giving power to the brands through an alternative travelling image now preached by all] that are rebelling today against the fashion diktats, fighting for the end of labels supremacy, bones-out-skinny girls, and the end of uniformity.
The same streets that are now inspiring the runways, and turned into the word of this upcoming Springroll.
Yet, this season kicked off in New York with an unexpected highlight straight shooting at the fashion makers with a big mark underlining the absence – total or partial – of color on the runway. A tense debate impacting the general mood of this fashion week, but not the appreciation of real mooses of creativity, starting with the two most expected runways in New York.
Echo of our generation codes, Alexander Wang’s new move was bold and time appropriate ; playing the self branding game, and clearly showing the Exit to the No-Logo era. His beauty with attitude screamed out loud that THIS was made – without a doubt – for [the girls in] the streets.
A modern tale shared with Marc Jacobs, who made a strong statement breaking with the seasons codes : to flaunt a victorian jacket with sneakers, to wear black lace in the summer, to go against the expected bright and soft colors…to be different, and bring high fashion down to the ground. #NYFW
It’s then a long swim from New York to London that gave the Spring 14 girl a wet wavy look with an aquatic hourglass shape and futuristic volumes at Peter Pilotto, never letting go of the groundbreaking printed fabrics we love him for. #LFW
Off to Milan, the spring revolution was a major moment : Girl gangs and street art murals.
With her Street Feminist characters, Miuccia Prada striked hard with a collection looking like no other, bringing back the actual joy and engaging voice lost in fashion for few seasons. #MFW
Then last but not least, Paris offered us outdoors and street culture ; city tribes at Celine [crossing Brassai references and graffiti], blossoming tulips at Balenciaga, and a very polite F you Fashion at Rick Owens [who introduced his collection with a non-models stepping group performance under a crowd standing ovation], answering all together to something asked and expected for way too long : Authenticity.
Meaning the voice of the street has finally been heard.